今天在5IMX上看到了一个国外模型论坛的链接，www.helifreak.com，进去发现有个亚拓450的专区，其中有不少的技术好贴，发现其中一个帖子很适合初学者，对老手也有一定帮助，现转帖如下，因为本人时间不多，水平有限，没办法全部翻译，希望哪位高手能帮忙翻译一下，以帮助初学者尽快提高水平。
My blades will not track
- Small link(Link from seesaw to blade grips): Try a 1 spin adjustment for the blade that is low, mind your direction of twist on this one make sure your not adding to the distance instead of closing it. The small link attached to the blade grip is used for large gaps in tracking and should be adjust sparingly.
Long link(Link from Swash to seesaw): This is where you can fine tune tracking, your long links don’t move the pitch on the blades as much as your small links, use these to fine the last 2 or 3 mm of tracking. The long link is the link from the swash plate up to the mixer arm in the seesaw.
Blade balance: One of the most important things you can do to help your tracking is to make sure you blades are balanced you can find a simple balancer ReadiHeli or RcHover
Contributed from Gunz:a slight bend in the feathering shaft can cause the blades to be off no matter how much adjustment is done, so make sure you know your feathering shaft is straight.
Contributed by catfight: Another thing to consider that affects tracking is the screws that mount the flybar seesaw to the rotor housing- Loktite and retighten. This has been the answer in several cases (happens to me after crashes).
Tail boom adjustment.
- Make absolutely sure the vertical tail is truly vertical- prevents belt shredding.
Tail spins uncontrollably
- Gyro direction: Make sure you have the right direction set on your gyro, your helicopter should at best spin very slowly if your linkage is off but if it spins wildly it more than likely because your Gyro direction is set wrong.
Tail blade direction: another thing to check is your tail blade direction, make sure that the tail blades are spinning up into the wash, meaning your blades will spin counter clockwise if you are looking straight at them.
Motor Bogs
- ESC
Motor
Blades
Pinion
Formula for head speed
Rex wobbles on startup and at low head speed but is smooth on lift off
- When you first straighten out your blades to get ready to fly, there's not really any way to get them 100% by eyeballing them. When the blades start to spin up, the blades will be a little off balance because of this, and the heli will vibrate.......as the blades spin faster, unless they're in the grips too tight, they will straighten themselves out, thanks to centrifugal force.......once they've done that, and got to a reasonably high speed, most of the vibration goes away, and what doesn't go away, becomes a higher frequency vibration that is difficult to see.
Contributed by H0ndaJunkie
Just grab blades by the end(tips) and pull. this will get it as close to even as posible. should spool up fine from here as long as you have the blades balanced Contributed by sratzo
Apex Packs Great deal? You decide
- So far I have gotten about 10-12 minutes of hover per pack and after the first few charges they have gotten stronger IMHO I like these packs.
Blue or white Gears
- There is 2 questions here fist is:Why the blue gears (Delrin) Well this is strictly preference on your behalf as far as the main gear is concerned the only advantage the blue has over the white gear is a truer circumference, because the blue is softer than the white it can obtain higher tolerances to the original specs and give you better gear mesh with the main motor pinion, the white gear because it is a harder plastic is susceptible to manufacture defects that can cause a loose mesh on one side and tight on the other(odd long gear).
- Second:
Why use the blue (tail speed reduction) gear, simple... safety, the blue gearing for the tail drops the tail speed considerably which can and will help you if you have any problems with your tail such as a blade flying off, broken screw on the grips, etc... But the over all advantage to this is safety. If you previously had the white gears on and switched over to the blue for the tail, then you will more than likely have to reset your throttle and pitch curves according to the slower tail speeds. This means you will have to have in increased constant head speed to keep the tail speed at an rpm that does not drift because its not getting enough revolutions.
Pitch curves? Beginner and advanced
- Beginner: A pitch curve is the rate your main blade pitch raises or lowers depending upon your radio settings and stick position. When setting up a radio and heli for the first time everything works off MID stick on your throttle(collective). Make sure your motor is disconnected before you attempt setup any curves as you will need to use your throttle (collective) stick to test. (unplug any 2 wires from your ESC to your motor)
At mid stick throttle(collective) your blades must be at 0 degrees of pitch; at high stick you should have about 10-11 degrees of pitch and low stick should be at -10 -11 degrees; at this point we are only looking at the mechanical aspect of the head using a full range of pitch of 0 low to 100 high
We now know when we move the stick to 100% we have +10 degrees, at mid stick we have 0 degrees and low stick we have -10 degrees.
My suggestion for any beginner is to set your pitch up so that you have -2 degrees on low stick, 0 degrees on mid and +10 on full. The reason for only -2 degrees is simple, as a beginner(at least myself) you have a tendency to want to drop your throttle(collective) as quick as possible if you should get into any trouble, and with a pitch setting of -10 degrees at low stick you will SMASH your helicopter into the floor, so we need to eliminate all that pitch without touching anything mechanical.
This is were Pitch curves come into play, on any radio if you go into the menu settings you will find a spot to adjust your pitch curves, most radios have a 5 point pitch curve which allows for a finer tuning of you pitch opposed to a 3 point curve the Spektrums offer.
5 point setting: 35-40-50-75-100
3 point setting: 35-50-100
What this will do is make your low stick automatically go to 35% stick even when the throttle is all the way down, so instead of giving a full -10 degrees of pitch when you pull your stick all the way down you should now be giving about -2 to -3 degrees on your negative, this will allow the helicopter to come down much smoother and softer if you drop your throttle(collective) very fast.
Note from Gary JP4 as a beginner you should not have to worry about your idle up curves right away just make sure you normal hover curves are set correct so you -2 -3 on low 0 at mid and 100 at full. Thanks Gary
Why do people mount their gyros under the boom?
- When you crash, the fly bar can destroy your expensive gyro if it is on top. Even a minor crash while hovering can sometimes take out the gyro making it a very expensive crash. Most people move it to a protected spot that is still assessable for making adjustments.
Rick makes nice mounts for the SE, XL, and SuperFrames that allow you to easily mount your gyro safely under the boom where it is still accessible to make adjustments. Here is his website.
http://www.wavelandps.com/clearly/
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发表于 2007-12-9 20:53
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